Border Crossings: Where the Map Blurs and Memory Begins
By Marie. August 20, 2025
Borders aren’t just lines etched on a map. They’re invitations—to remember who we were before the crossing, and to reflect on who we became after.
Malaysia's Padang Besar
I had long dreamed of traveling from Kuala Lumpur to Thailand by train. There was something quietly thrilling about reaching the edge of two nations and discovering what life felt like in that liminal space. The direct train from KL Sentral to Padang Besar—Malaysia’s final stop on the West Coast railway line near the Thai border—is where immigration clearance takes place. It’s an integrated checkpoint on the Malaysian side, serving as a major entry point for both countries, accessible by train and road.
Padang Besar is a border town unlike most. It exists in two parts: one in Malaysia, the other in Thailand. Interestingly, both sides share the same name. Malaysians often call the Thai side Pekan Siam or Siamese Town. The northern region of Perlis, where Padang Besar sits, has been a bustling shopping haven since the 1960s, drawing visitors from both nations for trade, travel, and everyday errands.
The Bougainvilleas: Reminder of Home
As I wandered past small shops and homes, I noticed vibrant bougainvilleas spilling over fences, separating residences from storefronts. The sight tugged at something familiar. Iloilo City came rushing back to me. Bougainvilleas, to my mind, are Iloilo’s signature—alongside Dinagyang, La Paz Batchoy, Pancit Molo, Kansi, chicken inasal, the bike lanes that are roofed by wisterias and cherryblossoms-like boughs. I know no other Philippine city whose streets are so generously lined with bougainvilleas. When they bloom, the city transforms into a riot of color—red, yellow, hot pink, white. It’s glorious!
Some borders are marked by fences and flags. Others by the scent of unfamiliar spices, the curve of a roof, the silence after a stamp. This one was marked by a reminder of home.
🖋How to Reach Padang Besar—and What Awaits You There
✨To help readers visualize the journey, here's a simple sketch showing the key transit points: Kuala Lumpur → KL Sentral → Padang Besar (Malaysia) Then onward to Hat Yai → Bangkok (Thailand) This route traces the spine of the West Coast railway, with Padang Besar as the pivotal border town.
Padang Besar is accessible via Malaysia’s ETS train service, with direct routes from KL Sentral that take approximately 5.5 hours. The train terminates at Padang Besar Station (Malaysia), which doubles as the immigration checkpoint for both countries. From there, travelers can cross into Thailand either by shuttle train, minivan, or bus services to Hat Yai or Bangkok. Be mindful of the time zone difference—Thailand is one hour behind Malaysia—and plan your border crossing accordingly.
The town itself is a curious blend of transit hub and cultural crossroad. On the Malaysian side, Padang Besar is known for its vibrant markets, where locals and visitors alike shop for textiles, electronics, and snacks. It’s a melting pot of Malay, Thai, and Chinese influences, visible in its food, language, and architecture.
Across the border, Padang Besar (Thai) lies in the Sadao District of Songkhla Province. While it shares the same name, the Thai side has a different reputation. In recent years, it has been associated with sex tourism, a topic that resurfaced in public discourse following the release of the controversial Chinese movie No More Bets. Though the show doesn’t name Padang Besar directly, it has sparked renewed scrutiny of border towns and their role in Thailand’s evolving tourism landscape.
For travelers, Padang Besar is often a transit point rather than a destination, but it offers a brief, vivid glimpse into the complexities of border life—where commerce, culture, and memory collide. Whether you're passing through or pausing to explore, it’s a place where the map blurs and stories begin.
📝 Footnote about the movie No More Bets
No More Bets is a 2023 Chinese crime drama that follows a programmer and a model lured by promises of lucrative overseas jobs, only to find themselves trapped in a scam syndicate where survival means deceiving others. The film sheds light on the dark underbelly of online fraud, human trafficking, and cross-border exploitation—issues that have cast a shadow over certain Southeast Asian border towns, including Padang Besar (Thai side).
While the movie doesn’t name Padang Besar directly, its themes have reignited public scrutiny of towns associated with sex tourism and scam operations, especially those straddling porous borders. For travelers, it’s a reminder that border crossings are not just physical transitions—they’re layered spaces where stories of hope, risk, and resilience unfold.
📚Further Reading
To explore more about the themes surrounding border towns, migration, and cinematic portrayals of labor and risk:
- "No More Bets" movie review – South China Morning Post: A candid critique of the film’s portrayal of digital scamming and border town desperation.
- “China’s Border Towns and the Rise of Cross-Border Labor” – Sixth Tone: A journalistic dive into the shifting landscapes of labor, legality, and identity.
- "Labour Migration, Precarious Work and Liminality" – Academia.edu (PDF): This academic article applies the anthropological concept of liminality to the lived experiences of migrant workers in insecure, low-wage jobs. It explores four “liminal realms”—temporal, financial, social, and legal—and reflects on how migrants often hover between transformation and stagnation.
“While the film’s tone may falter, its backdrop echoes the real tensions of border economies and digital exploitation.”